Gores: Assembling two half-gores
by Katla járnkona

When making either a Norse undertunic or a Viking apron dress, you will have triangular gores to add to the fullness of your hem. When you have an odd number of gores, you will most likely have two whole (single piece) gores and two half pieces that need to be assembled into a full size gore piece.

Half-gore assembling: steps 1 to 3

1) Figure 1 shows the 'wrong' or back sides of your two gore halves. Place the right sides together and sew the two halves together.

2) Iron your seam open. Figure 2 shows your gore from the back (or 'wrong') side.

3) Figure three shows your gore from the front side. You can see how the seam allowance makes the gore tip have extra fabric. If you don't mind sewing with three seams coming together, you can simply snip off the excess fabric using the front of the gore as a guiding line to remove the seam allowance on either side.

However, I prefer to minimize the number of seams that come together in one place when I can. The next steps show how you can replace the top/tip of your gore.

4) What you want to do now is to take a small rectangle of (matching) fabric and size it so that your center seam (the vertical seam) is a few inches away from where the seam allowances (shown in the dashed line) come together at the tip. The rectangle that I have shown is longer than it needs to be, but it shown this size for clarity. The red dashed line extending along figures 4, 5 and 6 represents the seam line that you will make with your swatch of fabric.

Half-gore assembling: steps 4 to 7

5) Cut your swatch out. You will line up the new seam allowance (the bottom of the swatch) where you want your seam to be. Again, with right sides together, when you line up the swatch, the 'wrong' side of the swatch will be facing outward.

6) Sew your swatch onto the gore. Raise the swatch up to the gore top and iron your seam open. From the right side, you can see that the rectangle covers up the top of the gore and will replace the top of the seam on Figure 3.

7) When you turn your gore over to the wrong side, you can see the seam allowance of the gore, continuing up to the point, and the folded seam allowance of the swatch, pointing up (its right side).

Half-gore assembling: steps 8 to 10

8) The red lines on Figure 8 show where you want to cut the excess fabric of the swatch away, right along the edges of the top of the gore. Notice that this step will also trim away the excess fabric that was mentioned in step 3 (but its a moot point since the top of the gore is being replaced).

9) Figure 9 shows the gore after you have trimmed the excess swatch fabric away. The red line now shows where you want to trim the top of the gore away.

Be careful! You do not want to accidentally trim away your swatch! You might want to iron the swatch toward the gore hem, just to keep it safely out of the way when you trim the original top of the gore away. Use your seam allowance as the cutting guide.

10) The last figure shows the 'wrong' side of the gore after you iron your swatch back toward the top of the gore. Now you have a gore piece that will be just as easy to work with as your whole gore pieces.

Round out the lower hem line of your gores before assembling your tunic

Remember, you will want to round out the hem of your gore (before you assemble the gores into your tunic) so that the assembled tunic will have a fairly uniform hem.


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