3 Gore Apron Dress - Measurements & Pattern Sizing
by Katla járnkona

This form is based upon The Viking Apron-Dress: A New Reconstruction by Ellisif Flakkari (Monica Cellio). Its purpose is to help you 'do the math' for this method.

When making an apron dress with this method of layout, you make your decision on how long the dress can be is based on both how much fabric you have and how much fabric you need, based upon your body's basic measurements. The pieces that make up your dress will be cut from the cloth as laid out in the diagram at the right. Note: This layout assumes that your fabric doesn't have any sort of 'nap' that forces an orientation along the fabric; also, this layout also requires that there is no difference between the 'right' side of the fabric and the 'wrong' side of the fabric. So, let's do the calculation of how much fabric you'll need.

Apron Dress - pattern / layout

Use the larger measurement: your bust/chest size or your waist. Be sure to include room for breathing, movement and the fabric of your undertunic:

Measurement for: Actual size: Pattern:
Bust or waist: (larger)
Length from armpit to waist:
Desired length:
Your preferred seam allowance:
Your preferred hem width:

Note: If you are, like me, a plus size, you may want more fabric to slip around your hips. You can get more width around the hips by increasing the length of the gore so that it starts above the waist.

To do this, shorten the length from the armpit to the waist.

(Armpit to waist) + S.A. A =
(Bust / 3) + (2 * S.A.) B =
Pattern piece length: A + C =
Gore Length, therefore: C =
Gore Width ( 2 * B ): GoreW =
A + C + C:
L =
W =
7*S.A. + Bust
Estimated length of hem:

Remember, that you'll need some additional fabric for the straps over the shoulder, optional facing at the top of the apron, plus optional fabric for joining your half gores.

Measurements to mark fabric:
Along the edges:
1.5 * S.A. W1
2*Bust/3 + 2*S.A. W2
S.A. W3
Bust/3 + 2*S.A. W4
Check width: W ===>
Along the middle:
Bust/6 + 2*S.A. B2
Bust/6 + 2*S.A. B2
Check width: W ===>
If your rectangle of fabric is not large enough to accomodate the length & width, consider this alternate method of construction.
Remember, this is not rocket science!
It will not be critical if you round the numbers to a convenient fraction (⅛, ¼, ⅜, etc.).

Before you assemble your pattern pieces, you should round off the bottom of both the gores and the side pieces so that your measurement from waist to hem is equal on both the seams and the center of each piece. You'll have an easier time getting a uniform hem length.

Assemble your pattern peices:

Apron Dress: construction

For finishing techniques (straps, closure), read Ellisif Flakkari's article, The Viking Apron-Dress: A New Reconstruction (by Monica Cellio).

And, of course, you'll want to wear your Apron dress over an authentic rectangular construction for a Norse Undertunic.


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