3 Gore Apron Dress - Measurements & Pattern Sizing
by Katla járnkona

This form is based upon The Viking Apron-Dress: A New Reconstruction by Ellisif Flakkari (Monica Cellio). Its purpose is to help you 'do the math' for this method.

When making an apron dress with this method of layout, you make your decision on how long the dress can be is based on both how much fabric you have and how much fabric you need, based upon your body's basic measurements. The pieces that make up your dress will be cut from the cloth as laid out in the diagram at the right. Note: This layout assumes that your fabric doesn't have any sort of 'nap' that forces an orientation along the fabric; also, this layout also requires that there is no difference between the 'right' side of the fabric and the 'wrong' side of the fabric. So, let's do the calculation of how much fabric you'll need.

Apron Dress - pattern / layout

Use the larger measurement: your bust/chest size or your waist. Be sure to include room for breathing, movement and the fabric of your undertunic:

Measurement for: Actual size: Pattern:
Chest or waist: (larger)
Length from armpit to waist:
Desired length:
Your preferred hem width:
Your preferred seam allowance:

Note: If you are, like me, a plus size, you may want more fabric to slip around your hips. You can get more width around the hips by increasing the length of the gore so that it starts above the waist.
To do this, decrease the measurement length from the armpit to the waist.

You must fill in all of the values in the pattern columns (above) in order for the form to calculate your pattern piece sizes.

Sorry... Calculation Script is under construction.

(Armpit to waist) + S.A. A =
(Chest / 3) + (2 * S.A.) B =
Pattern piece length: A + C =
Gore Length, therefore: C =
Gore Width ( 2 * B ): GoreW =
A + C + C:
L =
W =
7*S.A. + Chest
Estimated length of hem:

Remember, that you'll need some additional fabric for the straps over the shoulder, optional facing at the top of the apron, plus optional fabric for joining your half gores.

Measurements to mark fabric:
Along the edges:
1.5 * S.A. W1
2*Chest/3 + 2*S.A. W2
S.A. W3
Chest/3 + 2*S.A. W4
Check width: W ===>
Along the middle:
Chest/6 + 2*S.A. B2
Chest/6 + 2*S.A. B2
Check width: W ===>
If your rectangle of fabric is not large enough to accomodate the length & width, consider this alternate method of construction.
Remember, this is not rocket science!
It will not be critical if you round the numbers to a convenient fraction (⅛, ¼, ⅜, etc.).

Before you assemble your pattern pieces, you should round off the bottom of both the gores and the side pieces so that your measurement from waist to hem is equal on both the seams and the center of each piece. You'll have an easier time getting a uniform hem length.

After your have rounded out your hems, you can organize your 8 pieces:

Apron Dress: construction

In order to assemble the third panel and the third gore, you will need to sew the right side of one piece to the wrong side of the other piece:

Apron Dress: construction

Carefully assemble each gore to a panel. It's very easy, but unfortunate when it happens (as you can tell, I've made this mistake) to sew one gore on the wrong edge of a panel.
You'll know if you made this mistake because, when you assemble the pairs, a gore should not line up with another gore!.

So, I have put a + sign between each pair of gore and panel.
Once you have the three panels attached to their gores, sew the panels together. You'll have a simple tube at the top edge, and lots of fabric at the bottom hem.

The center-back of the apron is where the two side panels are sewn together above the waist. I prefer to have the 'spliced' gore on the side, rather than in the center back, but you can make your own choice.

For finishing techniques (straps, closure), read Ellisif Flakkari's article, The Viking Apron-Dress: A New Reconstruction (by Monica Cellio).

And, of course, you'll want to wear your Apron dress over an authentic rectangular construction for a Norse Undertunic.


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